Cristalino Lodge

Much of life at Cristalina revolves around the floating sun deck, where you can spend many hours watching capybaras swimming by or the firelight flickering with a passionfruit 'Jaguar' cocktail in hand. Grown on site or locally sourced, the ingredients used in every meal are wonderfully fresh and favourites like tambaqui are served at candlelit tables accompanied by superb South American wines. In your down time, head for the cosy Reading Room, which has a stellar book collection and impeccable views of the forest.

A pathway leads you through the trees to Cristalina's 18 bungalows, all of which were designed to have as little impact as possible on the environment. The timber structures provide entirely natural ventilation (ideal for those sweltering Amazon days) while water is heated by the sun's rays. The huge windows of glass and stainless steel netting offer resplendent views. Accommodation ranges from standard rooms (there are four in a bungalow) to the 'special' bungalow, which enjoys an alfresco bathtub and shower. Across the board, amenities are high-end and homegrown.

The reserve has 30 kilometres of forest trails that wind through ancient forests filled with vivid birdlife, sloths and chattering monkeys. You can also choose to boat or canoe down the Rio Cristalino, where tapirs amble and giant river otters swim by. For an even better view, visit the two 50-metre-tall observation towers, which offer brave climbers the chance to see the sun rise or set over the canopy.