Belmond Hotel Splendido

Four acres of terraced gardens spill down the hillside, thick with palms, jasmine and bougainvillea, with a heated saltwater pool perched right at the centre. The reimagined design combines Ligurian craftsmanship through the interiors with hand-painted botanical murals, Genovese graniglia floors, Carrara marble and Lavagna stone. And the new Baratta Sedici bar, with its back-lit onyx counter, has quickly become the social heart. Dining is all about Chef Corrado Corti at La Terrazza, and for a spot of R&R, Italy's first permanent Dior Spa sits on the upper floor with its own roof terrace and spectacular views across the blue of the bay.

Martin Brudnizki channeled the Ligurian coast through every detail of the rooms, from hand-painted walls and ceilings to lace curtains that lift in the breeze and headboards upholstered in patterned fabric woven twenty minutes up the road. Traditional Midollino cane, Albissola ceramics and wicker bathroom vanities anchor the look in local craft. Most rooms face the sea – and some have balconies and private terraces big enough to breakfast on – while a handful overlook the gardens or village instead.

Portofino itself is a compact wander and boutiques, gelato and the tiny piazzetta are all ten minutes downhill, with a shuttle available if you'd rather not walk back up. Further afield, hike through the Portofino Natural Park to the lighthouse, visit medieval Castello Brown above the village, or spend a day in the pastel-hued Cinque Terre. There's also tennis on the hillside court, kayaking along the coast, and open-air massages at Le Jardin des Rêves, surrounded by a garden of jasmine and palms.