Tucked into the forests above Beppu, Japan's undisputed onsen capital, Showaen is a near-century-old ryokan with a backstory as rich as its mineral-laden waters. The site was once a thriving Edo-era gold mine, and when the diggers struck hot spring water instead of ore, a rather wonderful Plan B was born. Today, nine standalone villas are scattered across a sprawling 6,000-tsubo estate of manicured Japanese gardens, each with its own private onsen fed directly from the old gold veins below. Seasonal kaiseki dinners are served course by course in your room by a dedicated attendant, and the quiet is so complete you'll hear nothing but birdsong and trickling water.
The nine detached villas are scattered across the grounds and each is a self-contained world of tatami floors, sliding paper screens and wooden furniture. Some have separate tea ceremony rooms – an unexpected bonus – and you can also choose between aromatic hinoki (cypress) indoor baths or open-air rock baths. The larger Wakana villa is barrier-free and particularly spacious, while villas with outdoor rock baths tend to be the most requested. Western-style beds are available alongside traditional futons and each villa comes stocked with yukata robes, tabi socks and local beer.
The kaiseki. The head chef makes everything from scratch – dashi, ponzu, even hand-boiled salt – and the fugu sashimi is a real highlight.
Book the communal Kin no Yu outdoor bath at sunset. It's lined with real gold tiles and surrounded by forest and you get a free 50-minute slot in order of check-in, so arrive early to nab the best time.
The hillside setting involves stone steps and uneven pathways, which can be slippery so it's not ideal for anyone with mobility concerns.
Beppu Showaen can be booked with Timbuktu as part of a tailor-made Japan trip, rather than as a standalone room reservation. Start online, customising one of our recommended Japan trips featuring Beppu Showaen or get advice and suggestions from one of our Japan specialists who will design the trip around your dates, check availability and handle every booking for you.
Stays at Beppu Showaen start from around $70, or US$70, per person per night as part of a tailor-made trip. The exact price depends on your travel dates, room type and the shape of the rest of your itinerary. A Timbuktu travel specialist can give you an accurate quote for your dates.
Welcome to Japan's gloriously unpolished onsen capital where steam billows from every alleyway and meals are prepared in volcanic vents.
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