Tucked into the forests above Beppu, Japan's undisputed onsen capital, Showaen is a near-century-old ryokan with a backstory as rich as its mineral-laden waters. The site was once a thriving Edo-era gold mine, and when the diggers struck hot spring water instead of ore, a rather wonderful Plan B was born. Today, nine standalone villas are scattered across a sprawling 6,000-tsubo estate of manicured Japanese gardens, each with its own private onsen fed directly from the old gold veins below. Seasonal kaiseki dinners are served course by course in your room by a dedicated attendant, and the quiet is so complete you'll hear nothing but birdsong and trickling water.
There's no grand lobby or restaurant here – and that's kind of the point. The estate's Japanese gardens do the talking, with mossy stone paths winding past koi ponds, a small waterfall near the Hotarubashi bridge and softly lit lanterns after dark. Check-in comes with matcha and wagashi in a quiet reception room, the tea room offers a space for contemplation, and massages can be arranged on request. Meals are served privately in your villa by a nakai (personal attendant), each course timed to arrive at its peak.
The nine detached villas are scattered across the grounds and each is a self-contained world of tatami floors, sliding paper screens and wooden furniture. Some have separate tea ceremony rooms – an unexpected bonus – and you can also choose between aromatic hinoki (cypress) indoor baths or open-air rock baths. The larger Wakana villa is barrier-free and particularly spacious, while villas with outdoor rock baths tend to be the most requested. Western-style beds are available alongside traditional futons and each villa comes stocked with yukata robes, tabi socks and local beer.
Beppu is one seriously entertaining onsen town. The famous Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour) takes you past seven scalding, vividly coloured hot spring pools – cobalt blue, blood red, bubbling grey mud – that are spectacular to see but definitely not for swimming in! Try jigoku mushi, where your food is steam-cooked using natural geothermal heat, and don't skip the Beppu Ropeway for panoramic views from the top of Mount Tsurumi. The charming onsen village of Yufuin is an easy day trip, and the sand baths down by the beach are a quintessentially Beppu experience.
The kaiseki. The head chef makes everything from scratch – dashi, ponzu, even hand-boiled salt – and the fugu sashimi is a real highlight.
Book the communal Kin no Yu outdoor bath at sunset. It's lined with real gold tiles and surrounded by forest and you get a free 50-minute slot in order of check-in, so arrive early to nab the best time.
The hillside setting involves stone steps and uneven pathways, which can be slippery so it's not ideal for anyone with mobility concerns.
Welcome to Japan's gloriously unpolished onsen capital where steam billows from every alleyway and meals are prepared in volcanic vents.
/131.48560081194978,33.273854253301984,6/600x400?access_token=pk.eyJ1IjoidGltYnVrdHV0cmF2ZWwiLCJhIjoiY2poMGw1eHpkMmRkbDJ6bW8xYWZ5OGpjYyJ9.PYvAO7lUJ40SOpGvwmQLqw&attribution=false&logo=false)
