Matsuyama, the laid-back capital of Shikoku, is a literary and bathing city that most never reach – and that's exactly why you should go. Perched on a hillside above the 3,000-year-old Dogo Onsen district, Dogo-Kan is the work of the late Kisho Kurokawa, one of Japan's most celebrated architects, who poured his philosophy of 'symbiosis' into every detail. The result is a ryokan that is both centuries old in tradition yet contemporary in spirit, with an Edo-inspired lobby, communal baths fed by pure Dogo spring water, and kaiseki dinners built around the seasonal catch of the Setouchi coast. All in all, a thoroughly Japanese experience in a town that feels worlds away from anything familiar.
/132.78473055396395,33.85416666687086,6/600x400?access_token=pk.eyJ1IjoidGltYnVrdHV0cmF2ZWwiLCJhIjoiY2poMGw1eHpkMmRkbDJ6bW8xYWZ5OGpjYyJ9.PYvAO7lUJ40SOpGvwmQLqw&attribution=false&logo=false)
There are 90 rooms across eight floors, ranging from compact western twins to expansive tatami suites. The most sought-after are the nine 7th-floor rooms, each with its own private open-air garden bath, every one a different shape in a playful Kurokawa touch. The most recent 8th-floor, adult-only rooms offer a modern Japanese aesthetic and the views stretching to Matsuyama Castle and the mountains beyond are spectacular. For something special, the VIP garden room includes a tea ceremony space, Juando, overlooking a tranquil garden and a hinoki cypress bath.
Wandering Yukemuri Road – the ryokan's atmospheric corridor designed to evoke old Edo streetscapes – before slipping into the communal baths is a ritual you'll look forward to every evening.
Pop down to the Dogo Onsen Honkan in the early morning (it opens at 6am) before the crowds arrive. The ryokan lends guests yukago baskets with towels – just ask at reception.
The building dates back to 1989 and some areas feel their age. The road up to the entrance also has a couple of less-than-charming establishments – it's harmless, just unexpected.
Dogo-Kan can be booked with Timbuktu as part of a tailor-made Japan trip, rather than as a standalone room reservation. Start online, customising one of our recommended Japan trips featuring Dogo-Kan or get advice and suggestions from one of our Japan specialists who will design the trip around your dates, check availability and handle every booking for you.
Stays at Dogo-Kan start from around $240, or US$240, per person per night as part of a tailor-made trip. The exact price depends on your travel dates, room type and the shape of the rest of your itinerary. A Timbuktu travel specialist can give you an accurate quote for your dates.
A literary castle town with 3,000 years of hot spring tradition and top-tier cycling routes on its doorstep.
