Thirty minutes above Matsumoto, tucked into the forest at 1,050 metres, Myojinkan feels genuinely otherworldly. The Saito family has welcomed guests here since 1931, and the mythology runs even deeper. In fact, local legend talks of gods that once came to these mountains to soak in the hot springs. With three communal onsen open around the clock, private baths in every room, and silence broken only by birdsong and the babble of the Susukigawa river, this is a place built entirely for slowing down. Unusually for a ryokan, there are two distinct restaurants – organic French and traditional kaiseki – both sustained by local ingredients.
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Choose between traditional Japanese tatami rooms with futons and shoji screens, or more contemporary Western-style suites with Sealy beds. Both share the same calming aesthetic of timber, muted tones and generous windows that frame the green expanse outside. Every room has its own onsen (some indoor, some open-air), and each is named after local flora and fauna. There are no televisions – deliberately so. For larger groups, there are two restored Satoyama villas: Honjin, a registered cultural property, and Den, a century-old farmhouse with five bedrooms and a wonderful taste of rural Japanese life.
The communal onsen are each completely different – a deep standing bath, a reclining soak, and an open-air pool gazing into the forest. They're open 24 hours, so a midnight dip with nothing but the stars is in order.
Ask about Champagne Time on the open terrace. Sipping bubbles under the trees after a long soak is a pretty perfect way to spend the afternoon.
The shuttle from Matsumoto Station only runs twice daily (15:15 and 16:30) and you must book ahead.
Tobira Onsen Myojinkan can be booked with Timbuktu as part of a tailor-made Japan trip, rather than as a standalone room reservation. Start online, customising one of our recommended Japan trips featuring Tobira Onsen Myojinkan or get advice and suggestions from one of our Japan specialists who will design the trip around your dates, check availability and handle every booking for you.
Stays at Tobira Onsen Myojinkan start from around $350, or US$350, per person per night as part of a tailor-made trip. The exact price depends on your travel dates, room type and the shape of the rest of your itinerary. A Timbuktu travel specialist can give you an accurate quote for your dates.
A hub of Samurai heritage & artistic exploration, Matsumoto is a city that does it all in the Japanese Alps.
