Where to go in Kenya

Quite literally a green emerald jewel in the dusty crown of Southern Kenya, Amboseli is up there with Africa’s elite game-viewing destinations, especially when it comes to elephants. This is where herds of magnificent tuskers roam across a backdrop of striking Kilimanjaro views and where wildebeest and zebra pass undisturbed across the open plains. Next door are the Chyulu Hills, an oasis of green dominated by towering volcanoes and sparkling hot springs and although the game is generally quite shy, the area is an excellent safari companion alongside Amboseli.

At the far end of the eastern escarpment of the Great Rift Valley, in the shadow of snow-capped Mt Kenya and stretching over an area the size of Wales (but probably prettier), is the Laikipia Plateau. Laikipia isn’t actually one reserve but a patchwork of private ranches, conservancies and farms covering arid plains, tangled grassy thickets and pulsing rivers. Not only does the area boast some of the highest wildlife densities in the country, including endangered species, but it’s also a beacon for ground-breaking conservation projects. Combine this with some stunning private houses and camps and Laikipia is hard to beat.

Just south of the sultry city of Mombassa, Diani’s flawless, postcard-perfect beach is easy to get to and the perfect place to cast off your safari khakis and indulge that inner beach goddess (or god). A laid-back melee of boutique hotels, private houses and castaway-chic retreats, the resort is substantially more sophisticated then some others on the coast, but still perfectly charming. By day, life is all about the warm, turquoise seas with kitesurfing, paddleboarding, snorkelling and sailing on offer. By night, head into town for colourful cocktails as the sun sinks and take your pick of the fabulous restaurants and bars.

Wild, rugged and enticingly empty (of tourists that is, not wildlife) Samburu National Reserve is a place of baked red earth, extraordinary vegetation and unsurpassed beauty. Cleaved in half by the Ewaso Nyiro river, there’s more water around than you might think, given the stark landscape, and the ribbons of green that hug the winding waterway attract elephant, buffalo and zebra. Look a little bit harder and you’ll find lion reposing in the shade of the golden tamarinds and leopard darting amongst the acacias. This is a desert wilderness that is absolutely worth discovering, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.

There’s a long gravel road that runs down Kenya’s south coast. It starts in Mombassa, winds past Diani and eventually peters out a little further ahead, in an ethereal place where the landscape becomes more rural, the sea more turquoise (really) and the mangos more juicy. And that place is Msambweni; a charmingly picture-perfect fishing village and guardian of one of the most unspoiled beaches on the Kenyan coast. You won’t find any enormous, tourist-loving hotels or lukewarm buffets here either – just a handful of eco-chic hideaways and a wildly, purely tropical stretch of sand. And did we mention that the diving is pretty good too? Sounds like our kind of place…

Made famous in the 1970s by Joy and George Adamson and Elsa the lioness, and celebrated for the hordes of game and endless horizons, Meru’s reputation was marred by devastating poaching in the late 1980s. Thankfully, animal numbers are on the rise and there’s even black rhino to be found roaming the rich, grassy plains and lurking in the tropical riverine forest. Despite its riches to rags and back to riches story, Meru is still very much off the beaten tourist track in Kenya, which in our eyes, makes it the perfect time to visit.

Lewa’s story begins in 1977 with a man called Ian Craig and a small cattle farm where wildlife roamed free. In the 1980s, as a result of rampant poaching, 5,000 acres was dedicated as a rhino sanctuary, soon increasing to 10,000, before the entire 45,000 acre farm was turned into Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in 1995. Today, the conservancy is a critical part of Kenya’s conservation efforts and the pretty landscapes of gently undulating hills, savannah and patches of swampy papyrus hide an abundance of animals, including some of the rarer Northern species. And if it’s good enough for a royal proposal…

Only a short drive from the crowded capital, you might be excused for thinking you’ve hopped across a couple of borders when you catch the first glimpses of the shimmering expanse of Lake Naivasha. Here, pink-eared hippos peer out over the surface, lily-trotters dart around gnarled acacias, and antelope graze lazily on the banks. The lake itself is one of two permanent lakes in the Rift Valley and is also the highest at an altitude of 1890m. Today, it provides crucial irrigation for the battalions of fragrant rose farms that line the roadsides and attracts safari-goers looking for a slower pace of still excellent game viewing.

It may have its challenges, but scratch the surface a little harder and we guarantee you’ll find something you like about Nairobi. The de facto first city of East Africa is a buzzing metropolis of fashion, art and design and a mosaic of vibrant cultures that is most certainly open to visitors. Explore the trendy Westlands area, full of hip restaurants and funky boutiques, venture to the leafy suburb of Karen for some colonial charm or tread the pavements of the CBD for some of the continent’s finest museums. This is one of Africa’s most dynamic cities and we reckon it’s really quite cool.

Emerging from the shadows of the Great Rift Valley and flanked by craggy escarpments, emerald forests and a waterfall or two, it's Lake Nakuru. Flamingo might spring to mind and quite rightly so - countless nature documentaries have shown the fluorescent clouds of a million pink birds soaring high above the soda lake. Sadly, due to rising water levels, the flamingo population isn’t as high as it once was, but all is not lost. With buffalo, leopard, elephant, black and white rhino and lion all calling the park home, pods of harrumphing hippo in the northern section of the lake, and tens of thousands of glorious water birds in residence, there’s not a moment to get bored.

Lamu Island, part of the larger Lamu Archipelago, is tucked away at the northernmost point of Kenya’s enviable coastline. Very possibly Africa’s ultimate beach hideout, the island is sultry and spicy, bohemian and charming and totally, magnificently contradictory. In Lamu Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site of Arabic, Omani and Portugese influences, winding, donkey-filled alleyways lead to elaborate mosques and ornate mahogany doors, perfect for getting lost in. Yet just around the corner are the raw, untouched beaches of Shela, kissed by the turquoise waves of the Indian Ocean and ideal for doing absolutely nothing. And both are just as wonderful as the other.

Located in Kenya’s Northern Frontier, the name may sound rather tame, but 'tame' is one thing Matthew’s Range is not. Definitely in the running for one of the continent’s wildest and most remote areas, this is a place of prehistoric gorges, dense forest and jet-clear streams tumbling over craggy peaks. Most people visit for the phenomenal walking but there are a number of species around, and oryx, gazelle and Grevy’s zebra can be seen grazing alongside squat cattle and their distinctive Samburu owners. Matthew’s Range takes ‘off the beaten track’ to another level, but that extra kilometre is certainly worthwhile…

Tsavo East and West National Parks cover a massive 21 000 square kilometres of vast red-soiled, acacia studded wilderness. Combined, the parks make up one of Kenya's biggest protected areas and is home to some of the largest herds of elephant in Africa. The red dust gives the elephants a famously dark red glow from the mud, as they roam the plains and rolling scrub-covered hills. Tsavo is also a big cat haven, with lion, leopard, cheetah, and serval in abundance. With very few lodges, a visit to this area is an escape into the wilderness, and a truly exclusive experience away from the crowds of the Mara and other more densely populated regions. Tsavo-East is also a fantastic place for photographers with its fabulous light and unbelievable views, in particular the Mudanda Rock, Lugard Falls and Yatta Plateau. And once you have got your fill of Tsavo's incredible wildlife, it's a short hop to the beautiful beaches of southern Kenya.

Often left in the shade by older sister Kilimanjaro, Mt Kenya has gained a loyal following of intrepid mountaineers and climbers in recent years and quite rightly so. The second highest mountain on the continent, the twin peaked sentinel stands proudly on the equator, rising dramatically from the rolling plains in a profusion of rugged cliffs and glacial spikes. A climb to the top reveals a stunning landscape of dense forest and rare Afro-Alpine woodland, dotted with sparkling tarns and tropical plants. What Kili steals in height Mt Kenya more than makes up for in sheer beauty.

Lying within easy striking distance of Nairobi, Aberdare Park is a world away from the wide savanna-lands of Kenya's other protected areas. It's an ethereal place of dense rainforest and lush grasslands cut through by wide rivers, ravines and 300-metre-high waterfalls. The park is one of the smallest on the continent, but don’t let that put you off. In its forests, colobus and vervet monkeys swing through the branches, and rare bongo, bushpig, giant hog and black rhino snuffle in the undergrowth. You'll find Africa's classics too – lion, buffalo and elephant.

Sitting at the very northern end of Kenya’s Great Rift Valley, Lake Turkana shimmers in the heart of an otherworldly landscape that would look more at home on the Moon than planet Earth. It’s the world’s largest desert lake, and its waters stretch seemingly never-ending into panoramas of blackened lava and dramatic calderas. Northern Kenya is remote, and undoubtedly difficult to get to – the best way is probably by helicopter, unless you’re feeling very intrepid – but those who do make the journey are rewarded by visions of one of the most intense and untamed areas left in Africa.

It might be Kenya’s second largest hub after Nairobi, but Mombasa really couldn’t be more different. Yes, it’s chaotic, frenzied and maybe even a little bit grimy, but that just adds to the charm of this ancient island city. Historically, Mombasa was the most important port on the East African coastline, where merchants traded spices and gold from far off lands for ivory. Today, it’s a true Swahili town, and the blend of Arabic, Indian and African influences is intoxicating. But if you're looking for white sands and swaying palm trees, then head north or south of the city to the string of idyllic Indian Ocean beaches, and leave the bustle well and truly behind.

Little, laid back and gloriously low key, Watamu is a slice of unadulterated tranquillity on Kenya’s Indian Ocean coast. This isn’t the place to come if you’re looking for the razzmatazz of glittery hotels and cocktail bars – you’re more likely to find old men playing games of bao and untethered donkeys trotting down the village streets than people sipping piña coladas. But the beach is blindingly white and beautiful, and the Watamu Marine National Park offers sublime diving and snorkelling among pristine coral and multi-coloured fish straight out of Finding Nemo. Don’t miss seeing the Gedi Ruins, a mysteriously abandoned Swahili city, or Mida Creek, a tangle of mangroves and tidal wetlands with a profusion of feathered wildlife.