Where to go in Malawi

Legend has it that when the explorer David Livingstone arrived on the shores of Lake Malawi, he observed thousands of lanterns on fishing boats shimmering across the vast expanse of water, and called it "The Lake of Stars". Today you might not find quite as many fishing craft on the enormous, freshwater lake, but you will find hundreds of colourful cichlids flitting beneath the gin-clear water, crescents of golden-sand beaches and a smattering of idyllic lodges cocooned on the shoreline. Snorkelling, diving, boating and kayaking are all on offer to pass your days, or you can simply sit back and gaze at the sun-dappled lake in all its calm, serene and peaceful glory.

For a dose of traditional safari in the "Land of the Lake", make a beeline for Malawi’s most famous wildlife area, Liwonde National Park. An eccentric mix of classic Zambia (think stout sausage trees, palms and baobobs) and a little bit of southern Tanzania (swampy lagoons and pretty reed-beds), the park is not a tick-off-the-Big-Five sort of place. Instead, you’ll find yawning hippo and snoozing crocs on the banks of the Shire River, and sable, oribi, zebra and kudu roaming the plains. Leopard and lion make up the predator quota and excitingly there’s an excellent number of elephant, and even black rhino. And the icing on the cake? Liwonde is a birding paradise.

If you were to find yourself in what is now Majete Wildlife Reserve in 2002, you wouldn’t have found very much: desolate landscapes, plenty of poachers and certainly not a sniff of an animal. Then, in 2003, along came the magnificent non-profit organisation African Parks, which has introduced more than 2500 animals to the rugged wilderness. In 2012, the reserve became the first in Malawi to house all members of the Big Five. Today, alongside elephant, buffalo and big cats, you’ll find sable, eland, zebra and hippo, enthusiastic guides with the biggest smiles on the continent, and a swanky new camp to complete the experience.

The primary reason not to ignore the north of Malawi, Nyika National Park is unlike anywhere else on the continent. Covering much of the Nyika Plateau (a staggering 2500 metres at its highest point), the bucolic landscape of rolling hills, dreamy views and flower-strewn grasslands is breathtaking. You’ll find a good spread of wildlife dotted across the hills and valleys, including zebra, eland, roan, elephant and even leopard, and traditional 4x4 game drives are an excellent way to explore. But if there’s one thing not to miss, it’s the world-class walking and hiking – truly the best way to witness the stunning flora at the closest of quarters.

Imagine a sea of rolling tea fields dotted with pretty colonial houses, and pristine lowland forests watched over by towering mountains wrapped in wispy clouds. No, we’re not in Kenya – these are the Southern Highlands, Malawi’s answer to Out of Africa. The glimmering mountains are the Mulanje Massif, proclaimed a forest reserve in 1927, and home to exceptional walking, cycling, climbing, trekking and horse-riding trails. If that all sounds a bit strenuous, then the beautiful tea plantations provide the perfect antidote. Who’s for croquet on the lawn and a decadent afternoon of tea and cakes?

Lake Malawi aside, what else might you stumble across in southern Malawi? Let us introduce you to Zomba, a spectacular mountain and forest reserve dominated by Zomba Plateau, a statuesque 1800-metre monolith. The massif might not be as dramatic as Mount Mulanje, but it's hard to beat for a spot of leisurely hiking and outdoor exploring. Meander along the trails that crisscross the summit; enjoy the views of old Zomba town below; cycle through the trees (admiring the large tracts of cedar, pine and cypress); and cool your toes in the clear waterfalls. Or fish in the trout dams. Who needs a lake?

If you’re venturing to the south of Malawi, you may well find yourself in the gentle town of Blantyre. Named after the Scottish birthplace of explorer David Livingstone, there’s not much to differentiate the historical town from any other in Africa, but we rather like it. It could be its handsome backdrop of verdant hills and misty mountain peaks. Maybe it’s the laid-back atmosphere and intriguing history, or even the excellent choice of restaurants and guesthouses. Whatever its appeal, you’re sure to find something in Blantyre to pass a day or two – you may just fall for its charms too.

Sprawling, a little chaotic and seemingly never-ending, Malawi’s capital city Lilongwe has a dynamic atmosphere that's a far cry from the laid-back vibe pervading the rest of the country. But then, that’s what a capital city is all about! It’s a city of two halves – the Old Town and the New Town. The former is a medley of residential and commercial buildings, lively restaurants selling every type of food imaginable, and bustling markets selling even more. By contrast, the New Town is the commercial centre, with gleaming offices and high rises. Dotted around both halves are restaurants of the hidden gem variety, beautiful green oases and a couple of elegant boutique hotels, which make a visit wonderfully worthwhile.