Perched above Beppu, Japan's undisputed hot spring capital, the sleek ANA Intercontinental was the first international luxury hotel to open in the region and it makes the most of its extraordinary setting. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame astonishing views of the bay, as well as the city's famous steam plumes and surrounding mountains. With beautifully designed onsen fed by Beppu's mineral-rich waters, a French-inspired chef's counter restaurant and local artisan touches woven throughout, this is a seriously polished base from which to explore Kyushu's geothermal heartland.
The design is contemporary and refined, drawing on Japan's five natural elements for inspiration. In the fourth-floor restaurant, Elements, woven bamboo chairs and horse chestnut tables set the scene for relaxed all-day dining - and always accompanied by a view of the Myoban mountains, in whatever mood they may be in. For a special evening, Atelier is a dinner-only counter with just 21 seats from which Chef Kudo serves inventive French-inspired courses using seasonal Oita produce. There's also a sushi counter, a stylish bar with local shochu and craft cocktails, and the poolside Aqua lounge for lazy afternoons.
All 89 rooms are generously sized with enormous windows, private terraces and a calming palette of natural materials. Thoughtful local details make the difference – think handcrafted bamboo bath baskets, artisan-made yukata and wooden geta slippers from nearby Hita. The suites are where things get really interesting, however: Junior Suites come with private onsen baths on the terrace, while the 145-square-metre Panorama Suite offers a 270-degree view of the bay and mountains from its own open-air tub. For families, connecting rooms are available across several suite categories.
Beppu's geothermal wonders are right on your doorstep. The famous Hells – seven boiling, brilliantly coloured hot springs – are a short drive away, and you can steam your own lunch using volcanic heat at a jigoku mushi cookhouse nearby. Don't miss the sand baths at the seaside, where you're buried up to your neck in warm, geothermally-heated sand. It's really quite soothing! The Beppu Ropeway whisks you up Mount Tsurumi for sweeping coastal views, and the charming onsen town of Yufuin makes for a lovely day trip.
Soaking in naturally heated myoban waters while gazing out over Beppu Bay is about as close to total contentment as you can get.
The two public onsen switch between men and women daily, each with a totally different design. Stay two nights and you'll get to experience both.
The hilltop location is gorgeous but it does mean you're a good 20 minutes from central Beppu. There's a free shuttle, but you do need to book in advance.
Welcome to Japan's gloriously unpolished onsen capital where steam billows from every alleyway and meals are prepared in volcanic vents.
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