Batoka Zambezi Sands

The bar, lounge and dining room are perched on stilts above the river and the teak furniture, wooden floors, pewter ornaments and worn leather sofas are comfortable but stylish. An open kitchen keeps things sociable at mealtimes, while a sunken fire pit on the outer deck brings guests together as the light fades over the water. A riverside pool, on-site spa programme of bush meditations, yoga and treatments, and Wi-Fi in the main lodge complete the picture.

Redesigned by The Private House Company under O'Brien's meticulous eye, the tented suites are models of understated refinement with their natural materials, earthy tones, and beautiful linens. Each has an open-plan en-suite bathroom with twin vanities, a freestanding bath, and an outdoor shower, plus a private deck for watching the watery goings-on. Pool Suites step it up a notch and have a private splash pool integrated right into the deck - a genuine treat at the end of a dusty game drive.

Sunrise and sunset game drives offer the chance to see four of the Big Five (no rhino) in both the riverine forest and the open plains of Zambezi National Park, an underrated reserve that most visitors sprint past on their way to the Falls. River cruises put you eye-level with hippos and crocodiles at their most dramatic, while guided bush walks offer a slower, sharper kind of attention. Victoria Falls is an hour away for the full, thundering spectacle, and helicopter flights over the gorge can easily be arranged through the lodge.