Positano and Amalfi might draw the crowds, but the hilltop town of Ravello is the coast's quieter, more cultured little sister — a place that seduced Richard Wagner, Gore Vidal and Virginia Woolf into staying for a lot longer than planned. And right at its highest point sits Hotel Caruso, an 11th-century palazzo originally built by a noble family shipwrecked on their way to Constantinople. Opened as a hotel in 1893 by a local vintner named Pantaleone Caruso, it was lovingly restored by Belmond and reopened in 2005, complete with stunning (and original) 18th-century frescoes, centuries-old terraced gardens and an infinity pool so photogenic it has its own fan base.
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Stone vaults, Norman arches and frescoed ceilings set the tone in the main spaces, and happily, it all feels lived-in than museum-like. The Belvedere restaurant spills onto a terrace surrounded by fragrant gardens and serves Campanian dishes built around hyper-local produce — mozzarella from Monte Lattari, anchovies from Cetara, and herbs snipped from the kitchen garden that morning. For something more casual, the poolside Caruso Grill does excellent Neapolitan pizza. Come evening, the Piano Bar, all 18th-century frescoes and candlelight, is exactly the kind of place for a digestivo (or three).
Every one of the 50 rooms and suites has its own character, shaped by the palazzo's thousand-year evolution. Expect vaulted or frescoed ceilings, terracotta floors and furnishings sourced from antique markets across southern Italy. Amalfi-tiled bathrooms come with generous marble tubs, Bulgari and Penhaligon products and more space than you'd expect. Most rooms have a terrace or private garden with coastal views, though a handful face the village or the hotel's own greenery instead. They are still lovely, but worth knowing when you book. The separate Villa Margherita, with its own chef and garden, is perfect for families or groups.
Each morning, the hotel's traditional wooden boat Ercole sets off on a complimentary cruise along the coast. It's a beautiful and easy way to see the shoreline without organising a thing. A free shuttle also runs to Amalfi and Positano for those who'd rather explore on foot, and the concierge can arrange day trips to Pompeii, Naples or the island of Capri. Closer to home, Ravello itself rewards a wander: the gardens of Villas Rufolo and Cimbrone are minutes away, and the town's annual music festival draws performers from around the globe.
The view from the infinity pool. Suspended 1,000 feet above the Tyrrhenian, the water seems to spill right into the horizon. In fact, Gore Vidal called this the most beautiful view in the world...
Ask head gardener, Gaetano, for a tour of the terraced grounds. He'll walk you through a century of roses, pomegranates, olive groves and aromatic herbs.
The hotel is seasonal (mid-April to early November) and the winding drive from Naples takes a good hour. Gents will also need long trousers for dinner at the Belvedere.
A heady blend of cerulean waters & old-world glamour on the world’s most theatrical coastline.
