Cascade Island Lodge

Linked to the boat dock by a bridge, Cascade island (formerly Ntwala Island) Lodge is a little slice of paradise. In its main area is a chic-but-casual open-plan lounge with several comfortable sofas offering a front-row view of the river, and a dining area that opens on to a large deck with a swimming pool overlooking the Mambova Rapids. A maze of floating walkways and bridges link this island with others in the rapids – crossing them is a thrill.

Four impressively spacious suites are strung out along the riverbank. Each has a large en-suite bathroom with a huge walk-in shower (there's also an outdoor shower), twin basins and a tub that gets filled with bubbles each evening. Private plunge pools on the deck are edged with white beach sand and there's a shaded daybed as well as a few swinging chairs to shoot the breeze. Inside, the decor is elegant and simple, with polished wood and all mod cons.

Each suite has a dedicated personal guide and boat so you can pretty much choose your activity. See big game (elephant, hippo, crocodile and buffalo) on a boat ride along the Zambezi and Chobe. (You're likely to encounter other water traffic on the wide stretches.) Birdlife is abundant, including rare African skimmer and Pel's fishing-owl, and is best viewed from a silent mokoro. Catch tigerfish and bream, take a guided botanical walk or visit a nearby traditional fishing village.