Some hotels win you over with design, others with location - and this one does it with dinner. Tucked into the hillside near the village of San Cassiano in South Tyrol's Alta Badia valley, Ciasa Salares has been in the Wieser family since the 1960s, and their obsession with food has turned a traditional alpine lodge into a genuine gastronomic destination. A wine cellar with 24,000 bottles, dedicated cheese and chocolate rooms, and four distinct restaurants sit alongside wood-panelled cosiness and honest Ladin hospitality. Beyond the table, the UNESCO-listed Dolomites are right there (the Armentarola ski lift is practically on the doorstep), and summer opens up some of Italy's finest hiking.




Built from local larch, fir and stone, the interiors have a warm, lived-in look and feel more alpine farmhouse than polished ski hotel. Grandmother Hilda still keeps an eye on things, and it really shows. The main lounge is all honeyed wood panelling and crackling fires, while Bona Lüna offers a fine evening aperitivo. Four-course dinners at Sorí spotlight seasonal local ingredients, and the Infiní terrace is a hit for sunny lunches with a Dolomite backdrop. Downstairs, the Ega wellness area has an indoor pool, an outdoor hot tub, sauna, and treatments infused with natural Alpine remedies.
There are 47 rooms and suites, all styled in pale wood with handwoven textiles and the calming scent of untreated pine. Every rooms comes with a balcony and mountain views, though the higher-tier suites add welcome extras: Suite Lavarella has a coffee surprise, Suite Salares leans into the chocolate theme, and the Conturines suites have a separate lounge overlooking the peak they're named after. For a proper splurge, the Penthouse Rü Blanch has its own fireplace, and a private sauna and a hot tub on the terrace.
In winter, the Armentarola lift is a stone's throw away, linking directly into the Dolomiti Superski network and the legendary Sella Ronda circuit, an exhilarating 40km loop around the Sella massif. Come summer, the same terrain transforms into a hiker's dream: trails into the Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park start nearby, and via ferratas scale the jagged Conturines and Lagazuoi peaks. Back in the valley, visit the Museum Ladin to learn about the area's ancient cave bear discovery, or rent an e-bike and explore the Pralongià plateau's wildflower meadows.
Dinner in the Cocun cellar restaurant, surrounded by 24,000 bottles of wine while Jan Clemens, the family's fourth generation, talks you through biodynamic labels you won't find anywhere else.
Book the cheese and chocolate rooms in advance! The Nida fromagerie has over 60 raw-milk varieties, and the Nodla chocolate tasting is a proper sensory experience.
It's about a mile from San Cassiano's centre. There's a free shuttle, but if you want to pop into town on a whim, a hired car makes life easier.
