A port city with layers of Dutch, Portuguese and Chinese influence, Nagasaki has always been Japan's gateway to the outside world. Perched halfway up Mt. Inasa, Garden Terrace is a design-driven retreat by celebrated architect Kengo Kuma. With just 36 spacious rooms, four excellent restaurants and views that rank among the world's finest night-time panoramas, it's a hotel that rewards a slightly slower travel pace. Use it as a springboard for visiting the poignant Peace Park, the historic island of Dejima and the World Heritage-listed Oura Church, or simply stay put and watch the city lights flicker over the harbour below.
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Kuma's signature use of natural wood defines the communal spaces, where clean lines and floor-to-ceiling glass frame the exquisite harbour panoramas. The club lounge is a generous perk and offers complimentary drinks and snacks throughout the day. For lunch and dinner, four restaurants cover serious culinary ground, from the French-inflected creativity of Forest to the finely-crafted sushi of Tenku. At the top, a heated infinity pool overlooks the port, and the spa offers hot spring baths and plenty of treatments for unwinding after a day's exploring.
Across three buildings, the 36 rooms come in several flavours – Tower Suites in the detached annex for maximum privacy, Harbor Suites in the newer wing with jacuzzi baths, and a traditional Japanese Suite with washi paper walls and sandstone accents. All start at a generous 46 square metres (refreshingly spacious by Japanese standards) and every single one has an ocean-facing terrace and enormous bath tub, positioned to make the most of the view. Complimentary minibars and Nespresso machines are a welcome finishing touch.
Nagasaki's layered history is the real draw here. The Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum are essential, sobering visits, while Dejima, the tiny artificial island that was Japan's sole window to the West for over 200 years, is fascinating. Wander up to Glover Garden and discover the colonial-era mansions and sweeping bay views, or head to Shinchi Chinatown for some of the best champon noodles you'll find anywhere. Back at the hotel, guided architectural tours reveal Kuma's design secrets, and cycling, yoga and nightly explorations round things out nicely.
The night view. Watching Nagasaki's harbour transform into a carpet of twinkling lights from your bathtub is utterly magical.
Book dinner at the restaurants when you check in. There are limited seats and the teppanyaki at Chikusai, cooked right in front of you, is worth planning your evening around.
The hilltop location means you'll need the free shuttle or a car to reach the city's main sights. It's only ten minutes to the station, but spontaneous evening strolls into town aren't on the cards.
Once Japan’s only connection to the world, Nagasaki is a flourishing city by the sea where the ancient is woven into every aspect of life.
