Hammerkop Migration Camp

Hammerkop's tented structures mean the camp leaves a light footprint. At its heart, the main area is a simple canvas mess tent, with a dining area that's furnished with solid hardwood tables and chairs. The real luxury comes through in the delicious home-cooked meals – warming soups, aromatic curries, succulent marinated meat dishes – and beautifully set tables. Outside, the fire pit is set back from the riverbank but just outside the tree canopy, allowing for unobstructed starry-sky views.

Seven canvas tents hug the riverbank, each tucked into the trees for a good dose of shade and privacy. Rooms have either two twin beds or a single queen, made up with good linens and covered with vibrant Masai blankets. Don't expect wi-fi and underfloor heating, but comforts here are nevertheless more than adequate: solar-powered lighting, and en-suite bathrooms with hot-water showers, basins and flush toilets, and a shaded patio. The single family tent consists of two tents joined together.

Game viewing here is among the best in the world. Only across the border in Tanzania's Serengeti do you find such a variety of species, and in such numbers. Hammerkop's strategic placement means you're in the royal box when it comes to river crossings, which are far more dramatic in real life than on TV. It's all wildebeest versus croc and current – sweaty-palmed stuff! Game drives take you to the action; hot-air balloon rides provide a zoomed-out view.