One of Sorrento's most elegant hotels (and it's only Relais & Châteaux property), the Hotel Bellevue Syrene inhabits a timeless, 2nd-century Roman villa, its ancient nymphaea still visible beneath the building. Opened in 1820, every corner is as stylish as the owner (who genuinely adores the property). Think Neapolitan antiques sharing wall space with contemporary Italian art, calming sherbet-coloured interiors, freshly-cut flowers in beautiful vases and pretty balconies overlooking the Gulf of Naples. The staff have been here for decades and treat every guest like family. Oh and, it also happens to boast one of the most spectacular breakfast settings on the coast...
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The owner's art collection turns the communal spaces into a living gallery and there are photographs by the great Neapolitan artist Mimmo Jodice in one salon, and quirky Gennaro Sardella's in another. The winter garden veranda is ideal for a pre-dinner drink, while alfresco La Pergola restaurant is perfect for dinner on a summer's evening, live piano music floating against the Gulf backdrop. There's also an all-day Club Lounge that serves a delightful afternoon tea (and complimentary Prosecco and nibbles at sundowner time), and there's a small mosaic-lined pool, spa and hammam to round things off.
Each room is individually designed, and the interiors vary wildly, from sleek, monochrome modernism to full-blown baroque with gilded mirrors and ornate ceilings. All have air conditioning, a minibar, and balconies with sea or courtyard views, and the bathrooms are exquisite. For something truly memorable, the Roccia Suite is carved from an ancient Roman cave, complete with a private jetted pool and sweeping views of the Gulf. Meanwhile, the Lord Astor Suite is all crisp white and original bas-reliefs, with a terrace jacuzzi facing Vesuvius.
Sorrento's cobbled centre is a five-minute stroll away, with no shortage of restaurants, gelaterias and lemon-scented alleyways to explore. The Circumvesuviana train, just ten minutes on foot, connects you to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples in under an hour, while ferries to Capri and the Amalfi Coast depart from the port below. The concierge can also arrange boat charters, day trips to Ravello, hikes along the incredible Path of the Gods, and adventures to the icon of the coastline, Vesuvius. Back at the hotel, a cooking class at the neighbouring Villa Capo Santa Fortunata lets you try your hand at local specialities (and tiramisu!).
Breakfast of Danish croissants on the Villa Pompeiana terrace, a faithful reproduction of its namesake, frescoes and all, with the Gulf of Naples glittering below.
The wine cellar is inside an actual Roman grotto beneath the hotel and the sommelier's tour of Campanian wines, paired with local cheeses, is a real highlight.
Not all rooms have sea views. The courtyard-facing options are pleasant but you'd miss the very thing that makes this place sing. It's worth upgrading if you can.
A lemon-infused, clifftop haven on the sweeping Bay of Naples.
