Hotel del Golfo

The main building houses the Fontana Restaurant, where Chef Fabrizio Reffo's fish-forward menus and well-chosen Tuscan wines are served on a stunning terrace with views across the bay. Mornings kick off upstairs with a generous buffet breakfast and that same sea panorama. Down on the sand, La Capannina is a more casual affair: think long lunches, cold drinks and feet practically in the water. There's also a lobby bar for evening cocktails and twice-weekly piano bar sessions in summer. The seawater pool overlooks the beach, flanked by two whirlpool tubs.Beyond the beach and pools, there's surprising depth to the activities on offer. Two tennis courts (one clay, one synthetic - for the purists), a proper gym, and instructors for everything from sailing to Pilates. The mini club keeps small humans entertained from mid-June through August, whilst grown-ups can sneak off for treatments in the petite spa. Golf enthusiasts can practice their swing at sister property Hotel Hermitage's 9-hole course, just 6km away.

Split between the main building and five low-rise villas dotted throughout the gardens, the rooms are bright and classically furnished in a Tuscan style with plenty of light wooden furniture, airy fabrics and handmade Italian ceramic tiles in the bathrooms. All come with a private balcony or terrace, air con and Acqua dell'Elba toiletries (the island's much-loved fragrance). Sea View rooms on the upper floors have the best vistas, while the suites have a separate living area and hydromassage tub. Standard rooms only face the gardens, however, so choose wisely.

Elba is a compact island but there's a lot packed in. Borrow a bike from reception and pedal to nearby beaches – Spartaia and the wild little cove of Paolina (where Napoleon's sister allegedly sunbathed) are both within easy reach. There's a diving centre right next to the hotel and sailing courses are available for all ages. Venture further afield for the cable car up Monte Capanne, Napoleon's residences in Portoferraio, or a vineyard visit to sample the local Aleatico. At the hotel, there are two tennis courts, a small gym and a kids' club in the summer months.