Elba may be only an hour's ferry from mainland Tuscany, but the island has its own character: less polished than the Amalfi Coast, wilder than Sardinia, and laced with beaches the Italians have long kept quiet about. Biodola Bay on the north coast is one of the best, a pale sandy stretch bookended by low cliffs and backed by scented Mediterranean maquis. The Hotel Hermitage has occupied it since the 1960s, when the De Ferrari family built a scattering of cottages through a 50-acre park running down to the sea. Still family-run today, it's built for the long, slow Italian summer with three seawater pools, four restaurants and a private beach.
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Accommodation is split between the main building and a cluster of low-slung cottages in the park. Some look out over the bay, whilst others are set back among the pines. Interiors are classically Elban with glazed terracotta floors, light wood furniture and Vietri ceramic bathrooms. Most open onto a private balcony or terrace, and the suites have small jacuzzis and proper sitting areas. The sea view categories come at a premium but, if the bay is your thing, it's worth it.
The grounds themselves. Umbrella pines, mastic and rosemary in every direction, cottages woven into the hillside – it's a true Mediterranean dream.
Walk the coastal path to Tonnara di Enfola, the dramatic promontory facing the bay. It was the 1966 location for Anthony Quinn's film The Rover and today, it's the Tuscan Archipelago Park's visitor centre.
Rooms are refreshed in rolling batches each winter, so finishes vary from cottage to cottage.
Hotel Hermitage can be booked with Timbuktu as part of a tailor-made Italy trip, rather than as a standalone room reservation. Start online, customising one of our recommended Italy trips featuring Hotel Hermitage or get advice and suggestions from one of our Italy specialists who will design the trip around your dates, check availability and handle every booking for you.
Stays at Hotel Hermitage start from around $360, or US$360, per person per night as part of a tailor-made trip. The exact price depends on your travel dates, room type and the shape of the rest of your itinerary. A Timbuktu travel specialist can give you an accurate quote for your dates.
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Tuscany on the beach, with salt in its hair and a truly relaxed nature.
