Humura Resort

The compact but smartly arranged communal areas lend themselves to leisure, furnished neatly with traditional art and some quirky modern touches. The bar is small but well-stocked; Shiima Restaurant offers undercover patio dining, with delicious dishes and good company. Palm trees and ivy-clad walls shelter the property from neighbourhood noises, and the small pool provides solace from the midday heat. The gym (with aircon) has key equipment (including yoga mats); the modern conference centre can host up to 40 people.

​Just 18 rooms span the resort's ground or upper level, all featuring high ceilings, tiled floors and large sliding-glass windows facing the interior courtyard. The decor is simple but charming, and the rooms are, importantly, crisp and clean. Beds are configured as a large doubles or two twins, all draped with mosquito netting. En-suite bathrooms have high pressure showers. Other mod cons include bluetooth speakers, a minibar, air-conditioning and a tea/coffee station.

Uganda's attractions are abundant, but trekking to see the mountain gorillas in the wild, either at Bwindi Impenetrable Forest or Mgahinga Gorilla Park, is its top drawcard. Permits are pricey and advanced planning is essential, but watching these gentle giants play and nurture, laze and forage is, for many, a lifetime of anticipation compressed into an hour. Kampala, a necessary stopover for travellers, also has its charms, with streets bustling with taxis, music, and bananas offered in every imaginable variation.