Isandlwana Lodge

Moulded into the rocky ledge, Isandlwana overlooks a sweeping grassy landscape scattered with up-thrusting hills and plateaus. The extended, thatch-roofed structure of stone and wood is generously proportioned and surrounded by windows. Large ceilings add drama to the dining room (meals are delicious and the wine cellar well-stocked) while an enormous hearth keeps things cosy. A wraparound veranda hugs the lodge's edge and provides plenty of comfy outlooks. The pool is also nicely positioned, and the bar is always open.

The 12 bedrooms trace the length of the lodge a floor below the main area. Private stone balconies are a crowning feature and all boast equally prominent vistas. Recently redecorated in a blend of local and traditional styles, the rooms are lovely, with furniture made of African woods, and fabrics that are hand-painted or silk-screened. Large double beds are comfortable, and glass double doors swing wide for an indoor/outdoor flow. The en-suite bathrooms are roomy, with deliciously huge walk-in showers.

Tours of Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift are the lodge's principal outings; other visits must be prearranged. The guides are exceptionally well-read and knowledgeable. They recount the key players of the past, inviting you to enter the drama and the tragedy by stepping into their shoes. Exploring the plains and peaks is a must – on photographic safaris, birdwatching tours, walking, hiking and horse-riding trails. When you leave, a couple of nearby game reserves offer plenty of wildlife action.