Takamatsu is one of Japan's best-kept secrets — a laid-back port city on Shikoku's northern coast that serves as the gateway to the extraordinary art islands of the Seto Inland Sea. Naoshima, Shodoshima and Megijima are all a short ferry ride away, and back on the mainland, Ritsurin Garden (arguably Japan's finest) and Kagawa's legendary sanuki udon scene await. The hotel itself is a full-service city property, polished rather than boutique, but its position couldn't be better: one minute's walk from JR Takamatsu Station and directly opposite the ferry terminal. For exploring this corner of Japan, it's hard to beat as a base.
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Spread across 20 floors, the communal spaces are smart and well-kept, if a little corporate. The dining, however is excellent, from the seasonal kaiseki at Seto, to Shiki's teppanyaki counter and Fiore, a French-inspired kitchen on the 20th floor with fabulous views across the Seto Inland Sea. At the end of the evening, head to Bar Astro for cocktails and city lights with the glow of the red Takamatsu lighthouse flickering below. In the morning, a ground-floor bakery churns out fresh pastries and local souvenirs including wasanbon goodies and olive treats from Shodoshima.
There's a wide spread of options, from compact singles to spacious corner deluxe twins and traditional Japanese tatami rooms on the fifth floor. The latter sleep up to five on futons and are a great choice for families. Higher floors offer views of the Seto Inland Sea and Takamatsu Castle ruins, and all rooms come with bathtubs, soundproofing and fluffy down comforters. The three suites — Crown, Royal and the expansive Imperial — are right at the top end, although they feel more executive than characterful.
Takamatsu's port is the starting point for some of Shikoku's best excursions. Catch a ferry to Naoshima for Tadao Ando's Chichu Art Museum and Yayoi Kusama's iconic pumpkin sculptures, or hop across to Shodoshima for olive groves and Angel Road's tidal sandbar. Closer to home, Ritsurin Garden is a short bus or train ride away. Arrive early to glide across the ponds on a traditional wasen boat before the crowds descend. The 1,300 stone steps to Kotohira-gu Shrine make a brilliant day trip, and the Shikoku Mura open-air museum offers a quieter cultural fix just outside town.
Step out the door and you're practically on the ferry. Naoshima's art museums, Shodoshima's olive groves and a string of off-the-beaten-track islands are all within easy reach.
Ask the front desk for their handwritten udon map — the staff know every local noodle shop worth its salt (and broth).
This is a large, 300-room hotel rather than a cosy bolthole, so don't expect super intimate touches. But, it's functional and well-run.
Michelin-starred gardens, Inland Sea islands and noodles worth rearranging a whole itinerary for.
