Khorixas Rest Camp

The sandy campground is dotted with hearty indigenous vegetation and its interior roads are bordered with white painted stones. At its heart is the restaurant, a tented structure with a cement-block floor that has a markedly temporary feel about it. The food is generally good (of the grills and steak variety), the shop in the reception area sells the basics, and there's a swimming pool that's refreshing enough, although unsheltered. Apply sunblock liberally.

Rows of small, simple chalets offer cool shelter by day and protection against plummeting night-time temps. Of these, 10 chalets have a double bed, and 26 have two twin beds. All have en-suite shower/bath facilities. Family chalets sleep four in two double beds, and have a kitchen and small living room with TV. Don't expect luxury, but linens are clean, water is hot and the aircon works like a dream. For campers, the sites are large, with basic ablution facilities.

This environment is well adapted to challenge, and so should you be. Navigating the desert with a guide, searching for its resilient residents, can be hard work, but the rewards are plenty: elephant herds, lions, black rhino. Besides this, the basalt mountains, twisted dry riverbeds, gnarled mopani trees and boulder-toppled valleys are some of the area's fascinating geographical conversation points – what happened here, and how? A guided visit to Twyfelfontein is a must; make arrangements at the camp.