Kichaka Frontier Camp

The atmosphere is intimate (just two to six guests), so Kichaka is great for honeymooners, a family or group of friends. The main area, like the accommodation, is tented, with a dining table, comfortable chairs and a refreshingly back-to-basics attitude. You'll be astounded at the dishes that emerge from the simple kitchen's gas burner, barbecue fire and coal-fired oven – Noelle is a great cook. Dinners, for example, are three-course (the unctuous beef fillet main is the best I've had!).

Stay in one of three metal-framed tents set beneath shady trees. Inside, each has two comfortable beds with proper mattresses, a covered veranda and, about three metres away, a bathroom with a sink, a bucket shower and a short-drop toilet. The camp moves periodically, depending on which areas its owners wish to explore next. There are also three smaller domed tents for fly camping, should you wish to sleep out in the wild. These are arranged after you've arrived.

Much of the area is still unmapped, so every walk is an adventure – bring your most comfortable walking shoes and lots of sunblock. Moli is a charismatic teacher, and you're guaranteed to leave knowing more about the plants, critters big and small, the workings of the landscape and its history than you thought possible. After dinner, exchange experiences around the evening fire, or gaze at the stars through the computerised telescope. Game drives are offered in the wet season.