Kikuji Camp

A simple canvas tent roofed in thatch is rather well camouflaged amid the riverine forest. With roll-up sides, it enjoys an unfiltered view of the action at the river, and it's not uncommon to watch hippo or elephant from the comfort of the lounge. There's a dining area with a single family-style table, a small bar (in size, not stock) and some sofas. Outside, the campfire is ringed with chairs – your seats for the nightly theatre of stars.

The four canvas tents sit on the edge of the river, well-spaced and secluded. Out front, each has a covered wooden deck where you can watch the world idle by. Inside is a double or twin bed, draped with mosquito netting, a small dressing area and a writing desk. Just detached is a bathroom with a basin, toilet and hot-water shower.

Kikuji serves as an excellent foil for other camps in the region: for example, its winding, secluded waterways contrast with the sweeping plains and abundant herds in the park's north-west. While the wildlife here isn't as concentrated as in other areas, the river setting has a particular magic. Enjoy boat cruises that take you close to hippo and elephant, on fishing expeditions, or aimless sunset drifting. There are excellent places to alight on foot, and superb guides to accompany you.