Kisima Ngeda Camp

​The main area, built with beautiful wooden floors and palm-thatch roofs, consists of an open-sided lounge with cushioned, bench-seated nooks and, separated by the bar, an adjoining dining room. (The cuisine is very good, prepared using local ingredients, and produce made from the camp's own cows). In front, a large grassy clearing opens to a fire pit shaded by fever trees, and a boardwalk leading to the water's edge. The coolest place in camp is the sparkling pool.

​Eight palm-thatched canvas tents on wooden decks blend into the forest. In each, a spacious furnished veranda leads to the bedroom, featuring a king-sized and a single bed, and a comfy armchair. Behind the living area is the en-suite bathroom, with a walk-in shower and a separate loo. Staff will heat water for your shower, and generated electricity lasts through the night. The decor pays tribute to the indigenous people in features such as animal-hide lampshades and handcrafted metal-framed mirrors.

​Rise before first light to join the hunter-gathering Hadzabe men (you'll need to keep up – they maintain a good pace for 4–5 hours), or the women, who gather fruits and vegetables. You'll find them happy to share their knowledge and skills. Visit the Datoga people who are known for their jewellery and metalwork skills. At camp, explore the forest or lake shore, guided or alone. If the water's up, grab a canoe and your bins, and go birdwatching.