Kotohira Kadan

The communal spaces reflect the ryokan's incredible history – a lobby with views over the Kanakura River, a garden lounge overlooking the Sanuki Plains and the cone-shaped Mount Iinoyama, and a terrace with a soothing foot bath for moon-gazing evenings. Dining happens at Keyaki, with counter seats facing the garden or private rooms for couples, and the kaiseki menu showcases Kagawa's prized Sanuki beef, olive-fed pork and fresh seafood from the Seto Inland Sea. The main onsen, Kissho no Yu, has both indoor and open-air baths with views stretching across the plains, and a Thai massage cottage in the garden provides post-soak pampering.

The property is divided into distinct wings, each with its own character. Fujimidai's east-facing rooms look out to the Asan mountains and several have hinoki wood tubs on their terraces. Shogetsu Terrace offers more contemporary Western-style rooms with panoramic views. Then, Sansuikaku sits beside the garden with Japanese-Western rooms and access to the private forest-surrounded bath, Mori no Yu. But the real treasures are the three heritage cottages – Enjukaku, Choseiden and Sentei – tucked into the garden and adorned with beautiful artworks, fusuma paintings and carved timber ceilings that date back generations.

The big draw is Konpirasan, one of Shikoku's most important shrines. It's 785 steps to the main hall, passing sweet vendors, ancient stone gates and forested groves – and then another 583 to the inner shrine for those with the stamina and the legs! Back at sea level, the Kanamaru-za is Japan's oldest surviving kabuki theatre, dating to 1835, and still stages spring performances. Kotohira's main street is lined with Sanuki udon restaurants and the Nakano Udon School lets you have a go at making your own. Further afield, the art islands of Naoshima and Teshima, Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu and the dramatic Iya Valley gorges are all within day-trip reach.