Kulala Desert Lodge

The principal focus of the lodge is to make the most of the view, and to sit comfortably within it. The owners have clearly succeeded. Two adjoining thatched roofs, peaked to resemble dunes, cover the central area. To one side is the kitchen and restaurant, which spills on to a lovely veranda on which dinner is served. To the other is the bar and lounge, with an open fireplace for chilly winter evenings (mid June to August). Outside is a pool where cooling off after an adventure is mandatory.

There are 23 chalets or 'kulalas', from the local Oshiwambo word meaning ‘to sleep’. Each is made of canvas, wood and thatch, raised slightly off the ground to allow a through-flow of air. This, along with a ceiling fan, helps to keep the rooms cool in summer (no aircon here, this is an eco-lodge!). Inside are comfortable beds, luscious white linen and bold throws and an en-suite bathroom. Each chalet also has a roof terrace for sleeping out under the stars (not for cold winter nights) and a private deck.

Take an early-morning excursion (the best time to see the light on the dunes) to Sossusvlei, accessed via a private gate that is shared only with its sister Little Kulala Lodge. Climb 325-metre Big Daddy, Sossusvlei's tallest dune. It's a longer trip to dramatic Sesriem Canyon, but worth it for the memories and photographs. Take a shorter drive in Kulala Private Reserve, go on a guided walking trail, or get a bird's-eye view from a hot-air balloon (an extra but very worth it charge).