Le Naoura - Barrière

Walled gardens and a large heated pool form the social heart of the place - the sort of setup that makes you feel you've arrived somewhere rather than just checked in. Le Wardya restaurant faces the water and handles Mediterranean cooking with Moroccan inflections; Beefbar, also on site, does serious grilled cuts in a louche, low-lit room. The Nuphar Bar is desert-toned and good for cocktails once the sun has gone. The spa covers hammam, sauna and a full water circuit.

All rooms come with private terraces overlooking the pool, and none are small - bathrooms run to both tub and shower, with enough room to actually use both without negotiating. The ryads are a different proposition: three to six bedrooms, each with its own bathroom, plus a fireplace, several sitting rooms and a private plunge pool with butler service. Arriving at one feels less like checking into a hotel room and rather more like borrowing someone's riad for the week.

Plunge into the souks from Bab Doukkala and give yourself at least half a morning - leather, spices, lanterns, and the inevitable wrong turn that leads somewhere better. Jemaa el-Fna Square is a ten-minute walk; go at dusk when the food stalls ignite. Jardin Majorelle and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent sit a short taxi ride north. For something further afield, the Atlas Mountains make a rewarding half-day - the concierge can arrange a driver, or a camel trek if the mood takes you.