Le Sirenuse

Spread across five levels of the original palazzo, the communal spaces are a rabbit warren of art, antiques and happy discoveries. Franco Sersale's collection of Suzani rugs and 17th-century Neapolitan paintings share wall space with contemporary commissions by the likes of Martin Creed, whose neon 'Don't Worry' hangs above the bar it eventually named. Downstairs, La Sponda serves elegant Mediterranean dishes by candlelight – all four hundred of them – while Aldo's seafood grill and Franco's Bar compete for the best sunset spot. The Gae Aulenti-designed spa has a hammam, sauna and plunge pool.

No two of the 58 rooms are alike, though all share a soothing palette of white-washed walls, traditional vaulted ceilings and hand-painted Vietri majolica tiles. Antique furniture sits alongside modern amenities, and the family's own Eau d'Italie toiletries are a beautiful touch. Sea-view rooms and suites come with private balconies overlooking the bay - and some even have enormous marble bathtubs positioned to make the most of the view. Do note that the entry-level courtyard rooms, while charming, face inward and are on the cosier side.

From June to October, the hotel's vintage fishing boat, the Sant'Antonio, is available for complimentary excursions along the coast and out to the Siren Islands – easily the best way to see the Amalfi coastline. Back on dry land, the concierge can arrange private boats to Capri, day trips to Pompeii and Ravello, or a wander down to Spiaggia Grande and the quieter Fornillo beach. There's a weekly programme of complimentary activities too, from wine tastings and Pilates to cocktail-making classes. Or simply do nothing at all – you certainly wouldn't be the first.