Mantadia Lodge

The main area's high ceilings and massive windows let in a lot of light and offer wide, ever-changing views of the surrounding hills. The restaurant (which serves a good, though limited, French and Malagasy menu) and the lounge both feel a little unfinished, as does the young garden, but these will soften and mellow in time. Several large umbrellas on the deck shade wicker tables and chairs, the pool seems to hang over the forest, and there's a good spa.

The 25 rooms, including one family suite that sleeps five, are generously spaced, with forest and plantations all around. The rooms are impressive for a three-star hotel, spacious, with an efficient wood-burning stove, and large glass doors opening to a private patio. The bed sits atop a huge wooden base (mind your shins) and is dressed with fine linens and a duvet. En-suite bathrooms have all the modern conveniences. There is also a TV and wi-fi.

Andasibe-Mantadia protects a large swathe of Madagascar's remaining rainforest and is a 30-minute drive from the lodge. The best (and only) way to explore it is on foot, with a local guide (the lodge will arrange one). Follow trails through pristine forest, past lakes and sacred waterfalls, looking out for lemurs (the park's most famous inhabitants), plus other species – Madagascar has the highest rate of endemic life on the planet, especially birds, amphibians and reptiles. Périnet Reserve is nearby.