Mutanda Lake Resort

Ensconced by vegetation, Mutanda's setting is not one of garden landscaping, but of authentic wilderness. A hospitable one nonetheless, with wide, sloping lawns, broad furnished perches, perfectly placed jetties and plenty of spaces to steal into for privacy. The Swiss-chalet-style restaurant (with fireplace) is elevated, with views over the tree canopy and across the lake and serves meals whipped up from garden-fresh ingredients. Glass windows and doors span a whole side, but when the weather is pleasant you'll want to sit outside.

The lovely A-frame cottages feel like slender Swiss-meets-African chalets. They're set on the hillside with a steep staircase leading to the private veranda. Inside they are cosy but comfy, configured with two singles or a double bed, always draped with mosquito netting. Glass doors ensure plenty of natural light, and the en-suite bathrooms have piping-hot showers to wash off the jungle. Family rooms are a bit more spacious and hardily built, able to sleep three in a master bedroom and small adjoining room.

If gorilla-trekking is your prime objective, Mutanda is an easy hour away from Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and its estimated 320 mountain gorillas. Trekking can be tough, but several habituated groups mean sightings are promising. Mgahinga National Park, a similar distance away, offers Uganda's most exclusive gorilla trekking, and is also home to golden monkeys, which are a treat to see. From the lodge, visit the islands, skim the lake in a dugout canoe, take sundown trips on the barge (fancy a swim?), or visit local villages.