Ndali Lodge

The lodge is the heart of a 405-hectare property (just 40 hectares are cultivated) set along a mountain ridge with superlative views all round. The communal area is comfortably intimate, its bright walls, polished floors and furniture a tribute to local craftsmen. The lounge area has a bar, and meals are served in the dining area or on the veranda overlooking the lake. The food is excellent (the quiche is a delight). There's a pool, a cliffside sauna and wi-fi.

Eight cottages of stone, wood and thatch dot the cliffside, all with those panoramic views. Interiors are charming – very clean and nicely appointed with rustic and local furnishings including draped four-poster beds and cosy seating, a full en-suite bathroom with abundant hot water and, outside, a patio area with seating.

Tracking chimps at Kibale is a must, as is a visit to the wetland wonderworld of Bigode Sanctuary. Take a tour of the farm, visit Mahoma waterfall (great for a power shower), swim in the lake or explore its shores on a boat trip. Spend some time with the hosts, who are happy to share the lodge's tale of loss and reconciliation. Their reforestation project has been a triumphant success, and is now a well-used habitat of birds and monkeys.