Nkasa Lupala Lodge

The main area makes a refreshing change from typical bush-lodge architecture, and is an interesting multi-level wooden structure with branching decks, half-domed thatched roofs and enough wicker furniture to furnish a small village! On the ground level, there's a small plunge pool and a shady thatched sitting area - perfect for watching the wildlife drinking at the channel. The middle level has two open-air rooms, home to the dining area, lounge and bar, and a circular deck and fire pit for unobstructed views of the stars.

Ten double tents are scattered on the edge of the channel, accessed by sandy pathways from the main area. Each sits on a raised deck, with a large shady porch from which to enjoy the reed-rimmed view of the water. Rooms are small but extremely well-designed, with sliding glass doors across the front and ensuite bathrooms at the back with spacious shower, basin and flush loo. It might be minimalist but it's very comfortable indeed.

Nkasa Lupala Park welcomes self-drivers, but a safari with a local guide is well-worth the time (and a little extra money!). Besides drives, walks, boat cruises and mokoro trips (local dugout canoes) are all on offer, though sometimes subject to seasonal considerations like water-levels. Spectacular sightings of hippos and crocodiles can be seen in the channels and swamps and also out on the floodplains - especially at night. There are good numbers of elephant, buffalo and red lechwe in the area as well as some of the big and hairy predators: lions, leopards and wild dogs.