Omali Lodge

Omali feels rather grand, with its long portico extending over a circular driveway. The elegance continues in the on-site restaurant, where the somewhat business-professional decor jars slightly with this island setting. Nevertheless, plenty of light floods the interior through the tall glass doors that open to the patio and interior courtyard. Breakfasts here or outdoors are delicious, and dinners offer fine-dining options. The ground's lawns are shaded by slender palms, and there's a cool, glimmering swimming pool (with poolside bar).

Terracotta-paved walkways thread across the lawns to the 30 suites, which are clustered in groups but individually staggered to ensure privacy. All face the interior garden and have either a queen, king or twin bed configuration, and en-suite facilities. The family room has two en-suite bedrooms, one with a king-sized bed, the other two twin beds. A honeymoon suite has a king and a exquisite free-standing tub. All are quite charming, with aircon, satellite TV, a telephone and mini-bar.

Omali is a good base for adventurous outings on the island. There's great hiking and walking, birdwatching and orchid hunting (there are 109 species) at nearby Obô Natural Park. Climb towering Pico de São Tomé to a hidden waterfall – well worth the sweat. Explore the coastal mangroves in a dugout with local fishermen; tour the Carlos Corrales Chocolate Factory to see the bean-to-bar process; dive and snorkel the pristine reefs. The islands are also important nesting sites for turtles.