Onguma Tented Camp

Three hand-carved giraffes guard the entrance to the open-fronted main areas. Inside are a bar, a dining room with a large table for informal dining, and lounge areas furnished with plush charcoal sofas, armchairs and large bean bags for chilling in with a cup of coffee and a book or a browse through the lodge's photo album. Outside, overlooking the waterhole, is a deck, a small pool and a fire pit encircled by directors' chairs – a perfect place to chat.

Paths lead to seven tented rooms (tent number five is closest to the main area), each on a raised wooden platform with sliding glass doors that open on to a private deck overlooking the waterhole. The rooms are large, with comfortable beds and a spacious en-suite bathroom with twin basins, a walk-in shower (nicely powerful) and a free-standing silver bath with great views of the bush. There's also an outdoor shower and wood-fired hot tub.

Activities include half- and full-day game drives in open 4x4 vehicles into Etosha National Park, sundowner drives on the reserve, guided walks, birding (look out for Namaqua sandgrouse, short-toed rock thrush, acacia pied barbet, double-banded courser and yellow-bellied eremomela) and spending time in hides.