Papa's Camp

There's a pleasing simplicity to camp life here. The main area – a traditional dining room and lounge – celebrates old-school safari style with a nod to Hemingway's era: think canvas, worn leather and the crackle of a fire after dark. Meals are taken under the stars when weather allows, with fresh ingredients and African-inspired dishes prepared with care. A well-stocked bar keeps sundowner traditions alive, and the constant soundtrack of the Nile rushing past adds to the atmosphere. Staff are warm and attentive without being intrusive.

Five spacious en-suite tents are strung along the riverbank, shaded by fig trees and positioned for views of the churning rapids. The style is classic safari – canvas walls, wooden furniture, soft linens – with open-air showers that bring you closer to the bush. Private verandas overlook the Nile, and it's entirely possible to spot hippos, crocodiles and elephants from bed. There's nothing flashy here, just considered comfort in an extraordinary setting.

Game drives through this private concession reveal lions, buffalo, giraffe and antelope like Jackson's hartebeest and Ugandan kob – all without another vehicle in sight. Night drives uncover leopard, genet and mongoose. A 90-minute drive brings you to the top of Murchison Falls, one of Africa's most powerful waterfalls, where the Nile forces through an eight-metre gorge before plunging 45 metres. Boat trips cruise past hippo pods and basking crocodiles, while guided walks offer a different perspective on the bush. Fishing for Nile Perch and exceptional birding (bee-eaters, ground hornbills, the elusive shoebill downriver) round out the options.