Phakding Lodge

Three buildings work their way up from the riverbank, each one incorporating those enormous boulders that make the whole place feel like it grew here naturally. The dining room's beamed ceilings frame postcard views of the gorge, though the real social hub is that glass-walled sunroom where trekkers sprawl on sofas from sunrise to well past happy hour. The kitchen works minor miracles with organic produce from gardens you can wander through, while the bar stocks real spirits alongside the obligatory Everest beer. Fresh flowers appear daily, fires crackle in the evenings, and the setup feels altogether more Aspen than Everest.

Natural wood dominates all 18 rooms, creating that alpine warmth you'd expect in Switzerland. Every bed comes with an electric blanket, an essential since there's no central heating and mountain nights do get chilly. The riverside rooms reward with dramatic gorge views and the constant soundtrack of rushing water, while front-facing quarters make do with glimpses of the gardens. Carpeted floors, writing desks and rather comfortable mattresses round out luxuries you won't find in standard teahouses.

The organic garden tours reveal how the lodge grows produce at impossible altitudes – and makes you look forward to lunch. A photogenic bridge leads to Phakding's tiny bazaar for prayer flag shopping and village wandering, whilst the lodge arranges monastery visits where monks might invite you for butter tea. There's also a fascinating archaeological site nearby with remains dating back 3,900 years. Come evening, the bar fills with trekkers comparing notes over that remarkable happy hour.