Setam Lodge

The glass-walled dining area is a beautiful place to have a meal. The menus are limited but fresh and filling (peanuts are often used, so mention if you have any allergies). Service can be slow, especially if the lodge is full, so it may be wise to order your food beforehand and arrive on time. Don't miss the fish curry! Take coffee on the terrace to enjoy the uninterrupted views. Wi-fi is free but often slow.

There are 20 rooms, each with a private terrace and wide views of the forests. All are clean and spacious, with tiled floors and simple, perfectly adequate fixtures and furnishings. There's aircon, a heater, a fan, large netted beds with good linen and en-suite bathroom shower, toilet and basin (hot water on tap). The atmosphere throughout is light and airy.

Ranomafana National Park is one of the most visited protected areas in Madagascar, and it's easy to understand why. It opens at 07:00, so head off early and employ the services of a park guide – the guides know the pathways well. Lemurs are obviously a huge attraction, but look closely and you could see red-bodied giraffe weevil, prehistoric-looking gecko species, giant chameleon and the comet moth, one of the biggest moths in the world.