Tam Coc Garden Resort

Like an island surrounded by waterlogged paddies and lotus ponds, the Tam Coc is bucolic and peaceful. Meals are served at Citronella, which offers a varied menu of Vietnamese and Western tastes. At the garden's centre is a large pool with a bevy of loungers and a Jacuzzi for cooler days. The bar has a wide menu of old favourites and new creations, all topped off with a herb or fruit garnish from the garden. Treat yourself to a toe-curling massage at the spa and later, swap stories over a roaring fire.

There are eight stone bungalows at Tam Coc, each with two rooms decorated in traditional tiles, bamboo furnishings and framed photographs of the flora and village life. The rooms have a large bed on a raised sleeping platform, an outdoor terrace, and an open-air shower in the rustic bathrooms. Most rooms have a view of the mountains, rice fields and gardens. The Full Moon Villa is the most private with a secluded setting and its own pool - and if you can't fathom getting out of bed, they'll bring breakfast to you.

In this neck of the woods, there are legendary caves and royal relics to discover on hikes into the verdant surroundings. Join the cheerful Mr Lien to learn the art of bamboo basket weaving and kite making. Ask the lodge to pack a picnic and enjoy it in the middle of rice fields, while folk music plays. You can also take a walking meditation into the forest or simply hop on a bike and see where the road takes you...