Umkumbe Safari Lodge

The river is the focal point of the entire lodge, with unobstructed armchair game viewing from all corners. And there are plenty of nooks in the thatched lounge in which to hide with a book and your binoculars. Meals are often eaten on the deck – under dappled shade by day, in the glow of candle light by night. Cultural evenings take place beside a roaring fire in the traditional boma area. For hot afternoons, the pool is the spot!

Tucked into an old-growth forest, the 10 cabins are clean and comfortable with exceptional views (most overlook the river). Rather reminiscent of the A-frame cabins you used on school camps, these have been upgraded with a private front porch and an outdoor shower. Seven are Superior Suites, with one king-sized or two twin beds and two fold-out sofas, and en-suite bathroom with shower and bath. Three Standard Rooms are smaller – but two are interleading, ideal for families.

The river systems in the region are what make it so exceptionally prolific, with high densities of predators and the entire Big Five cast. (It's especially good for leopard sightings.) Guides at Umkumbe are used to conducting action-packed game drives, but they also know how to slow down and focus on the things that miss the headlines – birds, insects, flora. Refine your tracking skills on a guided hike, so far from traffic lights and city buzz.