The story of how this place came to be is almost too good. In the late 1860s, when Florence was briefly Italy's capital, a German banking baron built an outrageously opulent villa for his Florentine bride — then very nearly burned it to the ground in a jealous rage. He didn't, thankfully, and Villa Cora is today one of the city's finest spots to stay. Tucked into rose-filled gardens on the south side of the Arno, a short stroll from the Boboli Gardens and Piazzale Michelangelo, it feels a world away from the tourist crush of the Duomo. The staff are genuinely lovely, the interiors are gloriously eclectic, and there's a heated outdoor pool. In Florence. Year-round.




Every corner at Villa Cora tells a different story. The Bar Long is all moody carved wood and aubergine walls, anchored by a colour-changing glass table that's wonderfully peculiar. There's a cosy cigar room, and in summer the poolside restaurant serves Tuscan tasting menus under a glass canopy. Come winter, dining moves to the atmospheric Moorish Room with its domed, painted ceilings. Below ground, tunnels connect the main villa to the Benè Spa, that includes a tepidarium, hammam and sauna, and treatments using products from Florence's historic Santa Maria Novella pharmacy.
No two rooms are alike, and each of the four floors has its own unique stamp. The Noble Floor is all frescoed ceilings, antique parquet and four-poster beds draped in heavy silk and is even protected by the Italian government. One floor up, it's all rose-pink boudoirs inspired by Empress Eugénie's favourite flower. The third floor goes Moorish with carved wooden balconies and city views, while a handful of rooms in the separate Villino Eugenia sit right next to the pool and have beautiful, pastel-painted ceilings. The bathrooms are crafted from Carrara marble and come complete with Annick Goutal toiletries.
The Boboli Gardens and Palazzo Pitti are practically on the doorstep and wandering through the statues and fountains, then popping into the Palatine Gallery is a blissful way to start a city break. Piazzale Michelangelo is a ten-minute walk for arguably the finest panorama of the city and from there, the Oltrarno neighbourhood, Florence's artisan quarter, is yours to explore: leather workshops, trattorie and the beautiful San Miniato al Monte church perched above. The hotel can also arrange Chianti wine tours, cooking classes and private museum visits, or borrow the complimentary bicycles and pedal across the Ponte Vecchio.
The rooftop terrace at sunset with an Aperol in hand, Florence's skyline glowing and Brunelleschi's dome doing its thing.
In summer, head to the Bellevue rooftop for a Club Night cocktail and in winter, the Sunday brunch with live music in the frescoed halls is a seriously indulgent affair.
Breakfast isn't included in the room rate, which is unusual at this price point. The shuttle is handy, but you'll definitely want a pair of comfy shoes for the uphill walk back.
