Deep in the Kiso Valley, a centuries-old farmhouse perches on a hillside above rice paddies and thick forest, looking much as it has since samurai walked the trails below. This is Zenagi, Japan's first 'expedition hotel', and it operates on a beautiful, simple premise: one group at a time, with a private chef, butler and guide dedicated entirely to you. The restored kominka is filled with black lacquer floors, washi-paper walls and furniture carved by locals, turning the whole place into a living gallery of Kiso craftsmanship. By day, former Olympic athletes lead you through gorges, along ancient samurai trails and into forests that are otherwise off-limits. It's deeply personal, wildly adventurous and utterly unlike anything else in Japan.
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There are three maisonette-style suites, each unique but with the same exquisite attention to detail. Bathrooms are on the ground floor, centred around bespoke cypress tubs that fill the room with the soothing scent of the sacred wood. Upstairs, tatami-matted bedrooms with futons sit beneath low ceilings and paper screens - very zen and very minimalist. Large windows frame views of the village, forested hillsides and, from the west-facing suite, a particularly lovely panorama over Tadachi's tiled rooftops.
The entire property is yours alone. No other guests, no shared spaces, no compromises – just your group (plus a private chef and guide).
Ask your guide about access to the government-protected hinoki cypress forest. Zenagi holds the only key, and walking through the ancient trees is almost spiritual.
There's a two-night minimum stay and the valley is remote – the nearest station is Nagiso, with a hotel shuttle to get you there.
Zenagi can be booked with Timbuktu as part of a tailor-made Japan trip, rather than as a standalone room reservation. Start online, customising one of our recommended Japan trips featuring Zenagi or get advice and suggestions from one of our Japan specialists who will design the trip around your dates, check availability and handle every booking for you.
Stays at Zenagi start from around $1K, or US$1K, per person per night as part of a tailor-made trip. The exact price depends on your travel dates, room type and the shape of the rest of your itinerary. A Timbuktu travel specialist can give you an accurate quote for your dates.
A hub of Samurai heritage & artistic exploration, Matsumoto is a city that does it all in the Japanese Alps.
