Zomba Forest Lodge

Central to the cottage is a small lounge with a few old chairs and a couch, arranged in front of a brick fireplace. A couple of tables and chairs are usually joined together for communal dining. Several artworks of African animals adorn the walls, but don't expect anything fancy here; it's about as simple as a lodge gets. Still, there's a homely atmosphere, aided by the presence of two trusty dogs and the log fire. There's no electricity, so candles, paraffin lamps and solar lanterns make the atmosphere even cosier. A few benches in the enchanting garden are perfect for soaking up the silence.

There are four rooms in the house, either with double or twin beds, sleeping a total of eight guests. They are small and simple, tastefully decorated with Malawian curios and textiles. Each has an ensuite bathroom with a basin, a toilet and a rustic shower. Large windows let in plenty of light and boast pleasant garden views.

Lose yourself walking the numerous trails on the estate, most of which wind through indigenous forest next to the stream and up to the pine and eucalyptus plantations on the slopes. More serious hikers can head up the plateau - about a 3-hour round trip that will reward keen birders too. Zomba town, once regarded as the prettiest capital by the British colonies, is just a few miles away and a pleasure to explore (though it has lost some of its heyday grandeur). Alternatively, head to one of the nearby villages and take an nsima (Malawi's staple food) cooking lesson. Mountain biking and horse riding can also be arranged.