Chanoud Garh

Dining is done in two ways; Moti Mahal is Chanoud's main daytime dining area and in summer, dinner is candlelit on the rooftop; and Mor Chowk is for wintertime dining by the warmth of a crackling fire. Your meals are prepared from the family recipe book and include the home specialty, chakki ki sabzi, a Rajasthani curry. Although there is no pool, there are plenty of cosy jharokhas and wrap-around verandas overlooking a central courtyard, which makes for a lovely sunny spot to relax on wicker chairs.

Chanoud has just 10 suites, all decorated in traditional patterns and heirlooms from the family's long history. Each room has an en-suite bathroom decorated in quintessential marble with a walk-in shower; a minibar; desk and sitting area. Scatter cushions, textiles and stained glass windows fill the rooms with bright jewel colours. A selection of rooms also come with semi-private terraces with a cushy day bed. Ornate carved archways and antique furnishings hark back to a bygone era, the vibrancy of Rajasthan echoed in each room.

Surrounded by the Aravali hills, enjoy daytime drives to the saltpans as well as birding trips in the evening with a sunset picnic on the cracked surface. On the way, keep an eye out for Rabri settlements, semi-nomadic travellers recognised by their distinctive red turbans. The history at Chanoud can't be forgotten, so join Thakur on a tour through the palace as he regales you with tales of old. The family museum and urbar (main hall) are especially fascinating, here you'll see everything from beautiful paintings to weapons and ancient texts.