Chilcabamba Lodge

Nestled in a peaceful valley surrounded by astonishing volcanic peaks, Chilcabamba is an idyllic retreat. Lounges are decked out with traditional patterned rugs and bright, funky armchairs - perfect to curl up with a new novel. The dining room has wide, lopsided windows, earthen tiles and a stone bar, and the chef, Eugenia, proudly serves regional favourites, with her signature touch. Her homemade soups are always a hit. Around dusk, gather at the firepit for smores, stargazing and swapping stories from the day.

In thatched villas, there are 10 rooms with giant picture windows to let in the views of snow-hatted Cotopaxi and the pretty Andean páramo. The rooms are simply but tastefully done with wood-burning stoves, alpaca wool ponchos and heavy duvets topped by colourful runners. The en-suite bathrooms have a shower and biodegradable toiletries. The Family Cabins can accommodate up to five people and feature private living rooms with beanbags to recline on.

The area is a hiker's paradise and treks range from climbs to Cotopaxi's Refuge (it's one of the highest active volcanoes in the world) and hikes to the mysterious, lime-green Quilotoa Crater Lake, to bicycle rides across the grasslands, getting to know the unique flora and fauna along the way. For a more sedate day out, visit the Saquisili Indigenous Market (one of the largest in Ecuador) and pick up a few souvenirs, learn to milk a cow at the local farm, or catch a trout for lunch.