Gately on The Nile

This rock, timber and glass lodge is a bed-and-breakfast establishment with an on-site restaurant. In the gardens, several thatch-roofed bandas furnished with vivid cushions are great for lounging, and the largest of these houses the main dining area, where continental and Thai cuisine is served by candlelight. There's a masseuse available to soothe travel-hammered muscles, a sundowner terrace on which to absorb the sunset, and free wi-fi. Don't anticipate glamour, but do expect a warm Ugandan welcome.

Casual and rustic, the reception building houses five en-suite bedrooms that may be smaller than you'd like, but are nevertheless clean and comfortable. Lakeside Lodge has two rooms with queen beds and en-suite bathrooms. Simply designed, the large arched double doors and concrete floors help keep things cool. Two Lakeside cottages sleep couples in a queen/two single beds. Their crowning glory is an upstairs veranda with panoramic lake views. En-suite bathrooms feature decent showers, and there's a small kitchenette.

Many travellers use Jinja as a stopover to rest and catch their breath, but the lake offers some real delights. Walk on its shores for amazing views and good birding. The river itself offers rafting adventures of the low-key or more white-knuckled varieties. In town, Coronation Park is worth a pleasant stroll. The nearby Bujagali Dam on the Nile may interest hydro-enthusiasts. But for many, breakfasting in the garden and spending an afternoon with a good book is activity enough.