Laikipia
Il Ngwesi is one of Kenya’s most pioneering bush camps. Lying within a vast community conservation and livestock region north of the wildlife-rich Lewa Conservancy, the lodge is one of the first of its kind to be entirely owned and staffed by members of the local Masai tribe. This small camp, with just six rooms, sits on the thickly forested slopes of a hill in a remote corner of the conservancy. We appreciate the authentic, all-round Kenyan experience, and the focus that's equally weighted between the region’s traditional culture and heritage and the abundant plains game and birdlife.
The main lodge areas are spread out along the hillside, with a lounge, bar and shaded dining terrace at the top, and a wooden deck that extends into the treeline. Hand-hewn timber chairs and tables beneath the free-form thatched roof provide a comfortable place to relax. Follow the footpath that leads to an oasis-like infinity pool and a shady terrace, where lunch is usually served. The small curio shop stocks local goodies, and there's a massage therapist on call.
Sandy paths lead from the main area to six open-sided rooms or cottages set on timber stacks, with wooden floors built around the trees that form a Tarzan-like addition to the interiors. The back wall is an adobe-covered framework; the open frontage is sheltered by a low thatched roof. Bathrooms are en suite with a downstairs shower open to the sky. Two family rooms are interlinked via a swing bridge, and two have pull-out star beds. There's greenery everywhere...
Take a walking safari with a Masai guide and an armed ranger – you can climb, or part-climb, the Mukogodo Escarpment for some amazing views and sightings of plains game. Birdwatching is superb both in camp and on hikes in the surrounding forests and escarpments (more than 350 species have been recorded). Visit the local village to learn about Masai hunting and honey-gathering methods, watch a traditional dance, and even share a goat roast (extra cost). Expect some magical moments.
Head to the specially constructed hide built beside a waterhole below the lodge – it's a magnet for the huge herds of elephant that amble through the valley.
Some rooms have 'star beds' which can be wheeled out onto the deck for a romantic night beneath the sparkling African night sky, but availability is very limited so book early!
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A patchwork of pretty reserves where conservation and communities are just as important as safaris.
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