Kirurumu Serengeti Camp

​The under-canvas lounge/mess tent at the heart of the camp is open on one side to take advantage of the wide views through the acacia woodland to broad open plains. The small lounge is furnished with a sofa and a few chairs, and there's a limited bookshelf. Well-prepared meals are served at the rectangular dining table, where evenings are cosy and convivial. Outside, guests gather around the campfire for sundowners and after-dinner beverages, and clear sightings of the Milky Way.

Seven tents are furnished with netted four-poster beds and comfortable mattresses, arranged as a double or two twins. Canvas floors and zip-up, foldaway flaps provide the only barrier from the outdoors, but are perfectly adequate, as are the chemical toilets and bucket showers (hot water on demand). Rooms have a desk, luggage rack and pair of directors' chairs, and are decently lit with help from solar panels. Don't expect five-star extras – this is solid comfort for dedicated wildlife lovers.

Permanent water sources mean that this part of the Serengeti is richly populated with game, especially lion and other predators, and interesting birdlife. The Moru Kopjes are fascinating in themselves, their boulders shelter rock paintings. The area is also home to the Serengeti Rhino project, designed to help bolster the population of black rhino, and you may see the Great Migration. If your budget allows, drift across the plains in a hot-air balloon for extraordinary views and great photo opportunities.