Murchison River Lodge

At the heart of this family-owned lodge is a thatched, open-sided structure that houses the restaurant, bar and terrace. Here, you'll enjoy really good meals, and views of the emerald-flanked river and the wildlife on its opposite shore. Hippos wallowing, elephants bathing, antelope drinking – they're all common sights. Animals appear in the lodge's grounds too, birds and vervet monkeys among them. There's a simple on-site pool, along with plenty of space to settle back for a snooze.

Accommodation is in tents, thatched tents, and thatched cottages. The tents, set slightly back from the river, are more substantial than their name suggests, with netted twin beds, all linens, and shared ablution blocks. The thatched safari tents on the riverbank have an especially stuck-away feel. Their furnishings are much like those in the tents, with the benefit of en-suite bathrooms. The double-storey thatched cottages are ideal for families, with en-suite bathrooms and solar-heated showers, and a hammock!

Motorboat safaris are a must, especially to the base of Murchison Falls (hike the rocky pathway to the top to watch the river punch through the seven-metre gap into the roiling pool below). For vehicle safaris, the lodge is 20 minutes from the Paraa ferry crossing, which shuttles vehicles across to access the national park. There, self-guided or pre-arranged safaris can yield sightings of lion, giraffe, elephant, buffalo and leopard, and a cross-section of habitat. Chimp tracking is also available.