Ngaga Lodge

The large main area sits on a raised wooden deck, surrounded by lush green forest. It's one open-plan room, encompassing a bar, dining area and lounge, filled with plush, cream sofas and hand-carved chairs. Look out for the walls and the roof made of unbroken thatched raffia - a local, labour-intensive, intricate design that looks like a work of art A mezzanine floor houses the fire pit, made of beautiful worn brass. For a refreshing dip, head to the Ngaga stream, just a short walk through the forest.

The six traditionally built rooms are almost identical to the ones at sister lodge Lango. Built from sustainably-sourced wood and raffia woven into a dome-like hut, each has a wrap-around verandah with mesh and canvas doors leading into the bedroom. Inside, there's double or twin beds encompassed by a large mosquito net. Directly behind the headboard is a sink, and behind that, there's a clothes cupboard and an ensuite bathroom with hot shower and a toilet. Environmentally-friendly toiletries are provided.

The main reason you're here is to see Western lowland gorillas - some of the few that are habituated to people. You'll have a chance to track and view two of the groups that live nearby, the Neptunos and the Jupiters. Treks will take you through dense rain-forest, so be prepared to get wet and dirty, and to walk up to six miles of undulating terrain. You can't approach quite as close as you can to the highland gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, but the trekking is easier and the setting, more pristine and wild. Afternoon walks focus on other primate species and forest inhabitants, whilst night walks provide an opportunity to spot bushbabies, bats and a myriad of insects. Visits to nearby Ombo village make for an authentic experience of the local culture.