Ruaha Hilltop Lodge

The main building throws out any notion of walls in favour of a massive thatched roof sheltering an open-plan arrangement that catches every whisper of breeze. It's surprisingly sophisticated for a budget lodge – there's a full-sized billiard table, cosy nooks for reading, and an 'Eagle's Nest' for private dining when you're feeling antisocial. The bar stocks everything from fresh passion fruit juice to proper gin, and meals wander wherever the mood takes them – formal dining room, wind-swept terrace, or arranged as bush breakfasts before dawn game drives. The kitchen punches well above its weight, with chefs turning out both continental and Tanzanian dishes using produce from nearby Iringa, including homemade bread that would make a French baker nod approvingly.

The cottages come in various configurations – standard, family, group, and those aforementioned Utulivu numbers – all built in traditional style with grass-thatched roofs and local timber. Don't expect designer flourishes; these are functional spaces with comfortable beds, mosquito nets that actually work, and en-suite bathrooms where hot water arrives courtesy of the sun (or wood-fired backup on cloudy days). Each cottage has its own veranda with those money-shot views across the savannah, perfect for morning coffee whilst watching the world wake up below. The family cottages sleep up to six, whilst group accommodation can handle larger parties. Everything's solar-powered with 24-hour electricity in theory, though in practice it's more of a suggestion than a guarantee. But really, when you're this close to Ruaha's elephant-terrorising lions and ancient baobabs, reliable plug sockets feel rather beside the point.